From time to time the Denver brewery scene feels like one of those ancient moving puzzles from an Indiana Jones films – it’s dynamic, ever-changing but old and sedimentary at the same time. There is a beauty in that. It’s an iconoclast towards an industry that will never settle in or figure itself out. Or at least I like to think of them that way. River North Brewery was one of the first breweries I went to as a young man. And it was formative in the downtown Denver showcase of outstanding beer that you see today. Their location may have changed from my yesteryear (a new location will bring them back to RiNo soon) but the soul hasn’t. And that’s what the fuck matters here at The Denver Hopper. That and the beer.
The city begins to unwind when you head north for long enough on Downing St. The plush new condos transform into a landscape of industrial buildings with old leftovers of an age gone by sprinkled in between. River North Brewery resides at the blurred line of old and new with a huge parking lot and welcoming atmosphere. When I arrive the taproom is bustling with a Happy Hour crowd. It’s a Thirsty Thursday. The feeling of freedom from a life or restriction whirls around the nose and ears.
Founded in 2012 by Matt and Jessica Hess, River North Brewery is run on a tight ship of only six full-time employees and two part-time. Their story started with Matt’s passion for home brewing Belgian style beers and morphed into brewing many different styles. The first beer I tried on my visit was the trip down memory lane. The Farmhouse Ale (4.6 ABV) is a Belgian Saison that’s primed for summer or any time you want an easy-drinker. Belgian esters tickled the tongue as I settled into the beer and enjoyed the fading summer warm in their open and inviting taproom.
Patrick was nice enough to sit down with me and talk over some beers while Kim worked at the bar. Patrick runs marketing and Kim is the Taproom Manager. This husband and wife team have been with River North since the beginning. They have seen the ebb and flow of change and growth happen – going from a baby brewery built on a dream to canning 5 different beers: The River North White, Farmhouse Ale, Colorado IPA, Mountain Haze New England IPA and the Pilsner. Times sure have changed but their resolve and passion are apparent and steadfast.
The next beer I had was the White Noise collaboration with Station 26 they are bringing to GABF. They decided to go buck wild and dry hop their River North White. This beer stood out to me the most. Sucking me into a world of glorious hoppiness. It drinks like a Belgian White IPA with a rush of that patentable juiciness of the Banger from Station 26. I like where they are going with this beer and their future collaborations have me fired up.
River North used to be in the heart of the RiNo neighborhood of Denver. But now where they once were is an apartment complex. But worry not, Hoppers! They are coming back to a location on 34th and Blake. Where they will be wrapped in their old familiar surroundings and have a focus on small batch brews. I can’t fucking wait for this to happen. It will be a cheaper Uber for me and so many others. But, most importantly, it will bring them back to the center of the brewery scene that they essentially started in RiNo. Follow them on Facebook to see when this bad boy will be opening.
So, how can I write an ending to a review on something that is only in its infancy? I don’t think that I can, at least not in a responsible way. I have to really step back and take it all in and accept the recklessness of my actions and examine my life. And my beer. River North Brewery has been a staple in my drinking life and in the craft scene for so long but their journey has only just begun. I have to believe in the veterans on my team. I have to trust the writing. But this is all easy in the face of exceptional beer at the core of what makes River North Brewery great.